Help with chipping and pitching
 

Hi Yoda and all,

I have a lot of problems with my chipping and pitching. I tend to hit a lot of shots fat. I have been reading TGM over the last year and I have recently purchased a wrist Tic Tac and Pureball striker. From what I see I "think" I am a hitter.


My problem with a FLW and BRW is I seem to get no elevation and can still hit it fat :crybaby:

When I hit it fat I mean fat "with" a flat left wrist (no click on the Tic Tac), not flipping at it.

Is this a pivot problem? A setup issue?

My stance is square, about a foot wide and ball position central, with hands at "impact fix"

I seem to chip better with a closed stance for some reason..........

Thanks all for any help

One thought is:
Start with and let your weight pressure remain on your left side. That way you are in position to strike down on and hit the ball first (as opposed to hitting the earth first). Being in this position, the right wrist will have no desire to flatten.

Chipping/pitching drill
 

Use a headcover or something similar and place behind the ball about 15".
Start with some short chips and gradually work back to some pitches, with care to not contact the headcover either on the way up or down.

I do seem to struggle keeping weight in one location

Any drills/ideas on practicing this?

Additionally, no click on the tic tac does mean that you are not losing at least some degree of the frozen condition of the brw and flw.

Hit chips, constantly monitoring the brw, flw, and weight pressure. Be able to tell yourself when you performed correctly and just as important, when you did not perform correctly.

Ballpos./aimingpoint/followthrough???
 

Couple of thoughts:

Ballposition might be too much back in the stance, try to move it to 2" inside left heel.

Do you hit down on the ball with your mind in pp#3?

Do you hit down and keep the feeling of hitting down until follow through (both arms straight)?


Sometimes the things you describe happens to me, it's often when I hit the ball with my mind in the clubface and trying to help the ball in the air by hitting up on it.

Measure to the bottom of the ball, not to the ground. The left arm should be straight at address and the club should be resting VERY lightly even with the bottom of the ball. Of course if the ball is sitting up in the rough then the club will be above the ground. Gripping down, all the way to the bottom of the grip makes it much easier to have a straight left arm at address. I found I had to feel as though I was standing much taller in order to accommodate a straight left arm.

As far as the weight, move the knees slightly targetward then fix then move them very little until after impact when they can move even more targetward. Find video of Seve in order to see these mechanics beautifully illustrated.

Matt

Thanks you for the responses so far.

Appreciated guys

Hinge Action & Ball Position
 

Thom mentioned ball position already but I wanted to add something if I may. Ball position is in relation to low point and low point is all about the center of the club head orbit i.e. the left shoulder. So, it is better to measure it in relation to low point rather than just moving it back or forward in your stance, although it does sound like it is too far back of low point. Trajectory is largely a product of the selected hinge action. A ball too far back, say with a full roll of horizontal hinge action will result in a low screamer. Perhaps the fat shots are a result of you trying to help the ball up? I typically use a no roll (that feels like a half roll - angled hinge) on chips and pitches. Hope that helps.

R,

The weight distribution and ball position inputs are important, and I would add:

Extensor Action.... Extensor Action..... Extensor Action!

If your primary lever assembly is allowed to lengthen during the downstroke (because it wasn't "stretched" to full length during the setup) then even if your weight is forward and the ball position is correct, there's a chance that you're going to bottom out too soon.

CG

Ea
 

It is not a stretch to say that it is a good point!

CG,

Could you describe that a little further...

I'm still a bit TGM wet behind the ears :(

Stretched out?

I'll take a stab a left arm loose/flexed, straightens on the way down and big ball gets hit before little ball?

Pivot, when I deliberately pivot on downswing, feeling my body open, no fat shots. On pitches especially, it is easy to run out of right arm due to the shortness of the stroke. Feeling like the backswing begins with the feet, really helps me avoid chili.

Go to zone #1(pivot). Any slow down or speeding up? Then check for steering. If pitches are low(ball position or face hooded or closed) tendancy is to get ball up (angle or verticle hingeing) and low point changes. Drill is to just hit the ball about 10 or 15 feet with one hand. First the righthand. Manipulate the right forearm, then find low point and face angle you prefer. Repeat with left hand only. Then both hands while monitoring mone #1. If you show improvement I can give you a brutal drill Mr Revolta tortured me with.

sawblade,

I have a slow tempo and feel i may well be speeding up

Feel free to impart your nasty drill :confused1

R,

Sort of. As you get further into TGM (you're on a great site to help with your understanding), you'll hear and read a lot about "extensor action". It's a very important concept. Essentially it's your right arm (if you're right handed) always trying to "stretch or lengthen" your left arm and it provides a certain "structure" to your power package. I suggest you do a search on the topic of extensor action..... it will give you a number of ways to think about it and how to best execute it.

When I apply EA to a chip or pitch shot I feel like my right arm is trying to "lengthen" the left arm and I "feel" it thru the #1 pressure point or that area where the cup of my right hand is pressing against the left thumb. The right tricep is "engaged" but I'm certainly not trying to dislocate the left arm either. It's enough force to ensure the left arm is fully extended and isn't going to change in length during the stroke.

You should now be able to bend/straighten your right elbow and apply the correct amount of thrust for the particular shot at hand, all the while knowing that the primary lever is a constant length.

EA can be a "hot topic" and I don't claim that my explanation is the best. Its just how I apply it.

CG

6-b-1-d
 

Do you have the book? Study 6-B-1-D. It's a beauty! The left arm is stretched (but not moved) by a below plane pulling action of the right arm through # 1 PP, or #3 PP. This provides structure to the power package made up of the arms and club. Another benefit is that it helps you measure yourself correctly in relation to the ball i.e. helps establish the correct radius

Extensor Action provides.

1. Full extention of the left arm
2. full extention of the right forearm for follow through
3. correct rate of clubhead closing

Happy Hunting

Yep, have to book.

I know a lot more than I did this time last year that's for sure....

Thanks again for all the input

O,

Good reference. I always struggled with the right arm "pulling or pushing" part of it. I feel like I "push" on #1 PP and it provides a "pulling" of the left arm straight. All I know is that it provides that structure.

R,

DO spend some time in 6-B-1-D. You'll be glad you did.

CG

Pull the string!
 

As Yoda says "...you pull a string into a straight line.!"

This may not be the orthodox way to approach teaching TGM, but if I am pressed to provide a "tip" I usually go with extensor action. You just gotta stay in orbit! As has been stated many times EA is the glue that keeps the flying wedges from disintergrating under the forces of accelaration.

I have to say extensor action seems to be seriously lacking in my action...

Having read through the posts made here, and practiced for a few minutes, I have noticed a big difference in the quality of short chips already

I totally agree that EA should be the first thing to be mastered. however, go to section on hingeing and try it. Notice how important pivot and rhythym become. The Revolta drill is an oldy. 1. Find some softpan (softer than hardpan) and face a strong wind (important). 2. Stand 4 feet from a 2 foot bench and start hitting 20 to 30 yard wedges. Brutal! Flop shot not allowed. Must hit down and through. I don't advice anyone to do this, because sand in your ears or a loud bang from the bench is no picnic. As a kid he told me to do this and I didn't know any better. Never mastered it!

Get it up or dowm?
 

Do you intend to "get the ball up" with the club? if so, do the opposite and let the clubface do the work.

(6-E-2. Hitting or Swinging, direct the #3 Pressure Point strongly downward per 1-L-9, 1-L-10, 2-J-3 and 6-C-2-A to insure the "Downward" element of Three Dimensional Impact (2-C-0). That is -TRY TO DRIVE THE BALL INTO THE GROUND, NOT IN THE AIR.)